All you could possibly ever want to know about string.
What kind of string or line should you use with your lure
coursing equipment? You're probably thinking that the subject of
string could be classified as MUCH ADO ABOUT NOTHING. Hey, string
is string, right? Wellll...maybe.
First we will examine the various types of line available for
our purpose. String is manufactured out of a broad range of
materials. The two most commonly used materials for string used
in lure coursing are nylon and polyester. Polyester is often
referred to using the trademark of Dacron.
The two basic methods of fabricating fibers into a cord or
string are twisting or braiding. Twisted string is fabricated by
rotating two or more parallel strands of material around an axis
in one direction. The braiding of string is accomplished by
passing each strand of material over and then under the other
strands while rotating in the same direction.
I have never used a twisted line and therefore it would be
inappropriate for me to comment on the use of this type of line.
I do know that some clubs and individuals use a twisted string
and I would appreciate hearing from anyone having experience
using such a line. So, for the remainder of this article, I will
be discussing the various characteristics of braided string.
TABLE A
| |
MFG.
"A"
|
MFG. "B" |
MFG. "C"
|
SIZE
|
POUND TEST
|
FEET per LB.
|
POUND TEST
|
FEET per LB.
|
POUND TEST
|
FEET per LB.
|
| 12 |
115 |
1848 |
100 |
1800 |
115 |
1745 |
| 18 |
180 |
1140 |
160 |
1080 |
165 |
1145 |
| 21 |
225 |
912 |
185 |
840 |
200 |
915 |
| 24 |
275 |
744 |
250 |
720 |
230 |
870 |
| 30 |
315 |
636 |
290 |
680 |
275 |
670 |
The next consideration when selecting a string is the size.
This can be designated as the diameter stated in a fraction or
decimal equivalent of an inch or a manufacturers size number with
an approximate pound test (approximate strength) being indicated.
The information shown in TABLE A is a comparison of the
specifications given by three manufacturers (who shall remain
nameless) for their braided nylon seine twine which is sold by
the pound. String sold by the pound is put up or packaged in
spools of one, two or more pounds. The column in TABLE A entitled
"feet/lb." is the approximate feet of string you should
get per pound.
As you can see, all size 24 string is not equal. This fact is
not particularly significant as the estimates stated by the
manufacturers are usually on the conservative side. For instance,
the string that I sell is a #24 braided nylon seine twine (also
commonly referred to as 1/16" diameter) in a 2 pound put up
(spool) with an estimated 1700 feet of string. Every spool of
line that I have actually measured has been over 700 yards or
2100 feet.
I measure the string in the field beside my house where I
have a 200 yard surveyed strip that I use to test equipment. I
run the string back and forth three times in this area with about
3 to 5 yards between corner pulleys at each end. This gives me a
1200 yard course in an area measuring 200 by 20 yards. I tie on a
bunny so that I can determine when the course starts and ends.
This is where and how I test all of the equipment I
manufacture...in the sun, in the rain and in the snow. I'm sure
that my neighbors think I'm nuts...standing in the rain,
endlessly watching a plastic bag go back and forth over a 200
yard area. Boy, do I know how to have fun!
Let's go back to the beginnings of lure coursing, when the
take up method was being used to run the bunny. The string of
preference with a take up system was (and still is) a line made
out of polyester. The reason for this is that a polyester string
has the working characteristic of stretching less initially when
put under load. In principle, when the line starts to wind onto
the take up reel, the lure will move sooner because the line will
stretch less before it moves the bunny.
Using the information I have gathered over the years from
various cordage manufacturers I will try to quantitatively
illustrate the difference between using a braided nylon and a
braided polyester string. For this illustration, let's assume
that the nylon and polyester lines are equal in size, strength
and braid construction. We will assume a take up course of 1000
yards. I do not know the exact amount of string that would have
to be wound onto the take up wheel before the lure at the end of
the 1000 yard course would start to move. This would depend on
the variable conditions of weather and the string condition. But
for this illustration let's assume, with a polyester line, that
the take up wheel had to bring in 15 yards of line (to remove the
stretch) before the lure could started to move. The more elastic
quality of a nylon line would require that 35 yards of line be
wound onto the wheel before the lure would start to move.
The stretch differential relationship between a polyester and
a nylon string is a somewhat linear relationship. For instance,
if a polyester line required 20 yards of stretch to be removed
from the course before the lure would move, than 40 to 50 yards
of stretch would need to be removed from a nylon string. This
linear relationship remains true when the lure is halfway around
the course. At the 500 yard point, the polyester line would
require only 10 yards of stretch to be removed in order for the
bunny to start moving.
About now you're probably saying to your self, "well
that's very interesting Tom, but so what". Nobody at a trial
or practice gives a hoot about all this stretch stuff except the
lure operator. The lure operator knows that taking all of this
stretch out of the string before the lure will start to move
requires time. An average lure machine will probably bring in
(take up) about 10 to 12 yards per second at the beginning of a
1000 yard course. This is assuming a 4 inch diameter center to
the take up wheel. So, at the start of a 1000 yard course using
polyester string, there would be a 1 to 2 second delay as opposed
to a 3 to 5 second delay when using a nylon line. This delay is
from the time the lure operator starts the lure machine by
pushing the button to the time the lure starts to move way out at
the end of that 1000 yards of string. The more the delay, the
more difficult it is for the lure operator to accurately gauge
when to push the button to keep the lure in front of the hounds.
The string in a continuous loop (C/L) system is, in effect, a
large belt which extends around the course and is driven by a C/L
wheel or sheave of various designs. In order to propel the string
around the course, some amount of constant force or tension must
be maintained by the string to transmit the necessary friction to
the C/L wheel in order to drive the line around the course. This
is usually accomplished by tying the two ends of the string
together to form the loop which extends around the course layout.
The string is then stretched back to the lure machine and placed
onto the C/L wheel.
Because the line is under constant tension, a braided nylon
string of 200 pound test or more is a good choice. I like to use
a little heavier string with a C/L system because it seems to
work better on a C/L wheel and it will wear better and last
longer than the lighter lines.
The amount of tension that is maintained by the string can
have a significant effect on how the course plan will run. I
recommend that a fisherman's scale or a laboratory spring scale
be used to measure the amount of tension on the line at the C/L
wheel. A scale that will measure up to 25 pounds is adequate for
this purpose. The use of a scale to determine the string tension
will assure a more consistent result when setting up each course
plan.
To measure the static tension on the string, simply stretch
the string to the back edge of the C/L wheel and attach the scale
to the string. After reading the amount of tension indicated by
the spring scale, place the string on the C/L wheel and take a
test run to see if the course plan is running OK.
If the string slips or doubles over on itself when the wheel
turns, there is not adequate tension on the line. To correct this
condition you need to shorten the string in one of several ways.
The method most frequently used is to cut a length of string out
of the loop which shortens the string and increases the tension.
You can also move the machine back or move a pulley in such a way
as to increase the length of the course relative to the existing
string length which will also increase the tension on the string.
After running a few courses, it is not unusual for the string
to start slipping or to double over on itself on the C/L wheel.
This is due to the string stretching and/or the course
redirecting the string into straight lines between the corner
pulleys. (We all have a tendency to weave a little while setting
up a course.) To correct this situation you will need to go
through the same process mentioned above...move a pulley or cut a
6 to 9 foot piece of string out of the loop.
After each successful adjustment to the string tension is
made, it is a good idea, for future reference, to take a new
measurement with the spring scale in order to take note of the
amount of tension at the time. The current amount of tension can
be used as a starting point when setting up the next course plan.
As a guide, more than 25 lbs. of string tension should not be
necessary to run a continuous loop course.
One important factor in successfully running a C/L course is
that the string needs to be of a uniform diameter or size. If the
string is new, the same size and type needs to be used throughout
the entire loop. This will assure a uniform amount of tension and
allow the C/L wheel to respond to the string in the same way as
it proceeds around the course.
Mixing new string with used or badly worn string, even if
they are of the same size and type, can cause the C/L wheel to
react differently when it encounters the new or used condition.
This is caused by the fact that the two lines are in reality
different diameters. The used string can have a smaller diameter
due to wear and the condition of being pre-stretched and heat
set. The condition of the used string will determine if combining
the two will work successfully.
This is not to suggest that used string in good condition is
in any way inferior to new line. As a matter of fact, used string
will often times require less adjustments to correct the tension
due to the pre-stretched condition which results from use. I have
always tried to use new string for practice sessions as a way to
break-in the line and then use this conditioned line for lure
trials.
WHAT TO DO, IF...
If you are experiencing the string breaking at the knots you
have tied, the knot shown in Figure 1, called a Blood Knot, will
solve the problem. This knot is most generally used by fly
fishermen to construct the tapered leaders that they use to
present their flies to the fish.
To construct the Blood Knot, you need to extend or crossover
the ends of the string about 6" or 8" as shown in Step
#1. The ends of the string are designated as "A" and
"B" and the arrows indicate the direction of the string
extending around the course. To complete Step #2, place your
thumb and index finger in the center of the 6" or 8"
overlap, using either your left or right hand. With your other
hand, wrap the loose end around the string 3 or 4 times. Bring
the end of the string back to the center loop and switch hands,
holding the completed wrap in place. Wrap the second end in the
opposite direction 3 or 4 times and insert the end of the string
through the center loop in the opposite direction from the first
wrap (SEE Step #2, Figure 1).
To finish the knot, gently pull on all four pieces of the
string at once, until the knot starts to form. When the ends,
"A" and "B", appear to remain in place, you
can release them and complete the knot by pulling the string in
the direction indicated by the arrows. The completed knot should
look something like the one shown in Step #3. You can trim the
ends, "A" and "B", leaving about a 1/4"
of string.
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